Wind Tunnel

That’s just another New Yorker cartoon that’s been on my refrigerator forever..but it gives a good idea of what it’s been like around here all week. Those infamous Gaviota winds have been blowing relentlessly. It’s kind of a springtime phenomenon, and we should be used to it by now, but it always wears me down. My limited understanding of wind is that air flows from high to low pressure, and as it does that in our part of the world, it pushes through the passes and canyons of the Santa Ynez Range, particularly through the Gaviota Pass, San Marcos Pass, Montecito foothills and some of the smaller canyons. This funneling effect makes for an especially strong wind.

In interviews with Ranch old-timers, the wind is often mentioned as the cause of marital break-ups and general insanity. They say God got distracted while creating this place, and the wind ran off, out of control. Years ago, when I talked to Jane Hollister Wheelwright, she remembered sleeping on the porch of the big house: “It was a wind tunnel,” she said, and in case that wasn’t enough to guarantee that you didn’t get any sleep, the rats would scurry between two boards and rattle them all night.

It’s still beautiful…bright blue-sky days, the grasses rippling, leafy branches waving as though in celebration. But it’s definitely weather, the kind of weather that has you thinking twice before you go outdoors for a bike ride or a walk or even a putter in the garden. Also, we did some serious weed-whacking and brush-clearing several days ago in conformance with local fire department regulations, so now each gust carries swirling remnants of grass and twigs, depositing them on the deck and walkways. A trashy kind of chaos seems to reign.

It ultimately makes me feel vaguely irritated, a little bit on edge, and vulnerable. More vulnerable than usual. There’s a metaphorical windstorm in the background of my life as well right now…another squall in the nightmare voyage I have several times alluded to since October, when that tragedy was unleashed. What can I do? It has its own trajectory. 

We’re all of us in our little boats, I guess, tossed about by wind and whim. I’m grateful for the voices of friendship I can still discern above the clamor, and the clear notes of that canyon wren I heard again moments ago, and the steadying arm of someone I love who has stayed with me all these years. 

 

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On Travel, Technology, Kindness: An Evening with Pico Iyer

Last night I went to the Lobrero to hear Pico Iyer “in conversation” with Don George. Wow. One of the world’s most revered travel writers and essayists, Iyer was born in England to intellectual Indian parents, raised partly in Santa Barbara, and educated at Eton, Oxford, Harvard…and the world.  A multinational soul (“I fold up my self and carry it around as if it were an overnight bag”)  he has described himself as “a global village on two legs“. He is an incisive observer of the modern world whose commentary is not only brilliant but also poetic and humorous.

Although  I’ve had  the privilege of hearing him before, Iyer was even more eloquent and insightful than I’d remembered.  Conversation? Well, Don George is surely an impressive man in his own right, but all he had to do is send a spark now and then and step aside while Iyer illuminated the room.  I took a few notes, and you’ll see words from Iyer in quotes below, even though I may not have captured them exactly or typed them in the precise order in which they were spoken. Delve into one of his many books if this whets your appetite for more. 

Having lived in Oxford and Santa Barbara, Iyer discovered his true home in Japan, specifically  Narita, where he was delayed at the airport and impulsively decided to head into town for a few hours: “The most unconsidered moment can change the course of your life.”

He expected it to be like the area outside of LAX or JFK…instead, he found a place that enchanted him: “But it pierced me with a sense of familiarity. It was more home to me than Oxford, more home than the house in Santa Barbara where I keep my things.”

He’s been living there for 28 years now. “Technology enables us to live in the places that make sense to us.”

A few more random bits and pieces…on travel, technology, writing, and other important things:

“I majored in English literature. I was learning to read the world.”

“Every person has a key to perception that would be locked to the rest of us.”

“The longer you know a person or a place, the less you are able to say about it.”

“The beauty of travel is not that it gives you knowledge, but that it reminds you of all that you cannot know.”

“When I began, the world had too little information. Now we have too much information. The role of the writer has changed.”

“The uncharted places–0f memory and spirit–are not online.”

“Writing is more important than ever.  Take the reader somewhere inside herself.”

On his newest book The Man Within My Head about his obsession with Graham Greene: “It is nonlinear, not resolved, and full of long sentences…intentionally the opposite of the experience you get watching a screen.”

“We have more and more ways to communicate but less and less to say.”

“The joy of quiet. It is essential to disconnect sometimes.”

“Traveling and taking a holiday are two different things. Travel is a perceptual exercise. You choose to ask questions, you choose what you will bring to it.”

“Travel is an exchange.  You must open yourself up to it, and cultivate the art of vulnerability.”

“Travel is a moral examination (that Graham Greene always failed). It’s about the riddle of kindness.”

“I have the illusion of knowing Paris. I know nothing of Yemen. But you can’t make simple assumptions. People I met in Yemen were kind. Nothing bad happened to me in Yemen. Santa Barbara is where your house burns down.”

“The most charismatic cities: Havana, Jerusalem, Damascus, Beirut.”

“Jerusalem: a confounding and compelling place where man’s aspirations and human-ness are in constant conflict.”

“What would I advise young people? Dont’ listen to me, your parents, or your teachers. Take two years off to get to know the world. Or look through the eyes of someone radically different from your self and see what she’d say.”

“The first imperative is to dream your way into another’s perspective. How does the world look to my neighbor? (As a Hindu, how does the world look to my Muslim neighbor?)”

“To quote Thoreau, it matters not how far you go, but how alive you are.”

“A good place is one that never leaves you.”

“I want to keep finding the places that challenge me, seeing the world through fresh eyes. Or as Proust said, not new sights, but new eyes.”

“Kindness is more important than doctrine. What you do is more important than what you believe.”

“Travel is like falling in love. You surrender to something beyond your control; you don’t know where it’s going to take you, but you know you will be transformed.”


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Young Ones, Take Heart

The year was 1976. I had a week-long assignment doing clerical work in a dingy office just outside of Syracuse, and I approached it with my usual fatalism. I guess I accepted this as my place in life back then, at least temporarily. There was a space heater at my feet and a radio on the desk playing “Diamonds and Rust”, and it was winter, as it always seemed to be. On this particular day I was wearing a navy blue turtle neck sweater, and even in the sweater I felt chilly. I have no idea why I remember such a detail. 

Well, as Joan Baez said, we both know what memories can bring–they bring diamonds and rust. But I happened to hear that song today, and the memories came tumbling back to me, unbidden, not beautiful memories, no blue-eyed vagabond smiling out the window of a crummy hotel over Washington Square (“our breath comes out white clouds, mingles and hangs in the air”) but a lonely and confused girl with my name filing invoices and answering phones in an obscure office in upstate New York, and perfecting her most trusty survival skill: typing.

Why did I sentence myself to these bleak and tiny routines? I think I was mentally ill. I liked that song, though, and when it came on the radio I probably turned up the volume a little. Its sadness resonated with me, its nostalgia for something lost and over. Maybe  I, too, was nostalgic, but for things that had never happened, and my yearning had turned to resignation. I was living my young life in a state of over-ness. 

And yet, here I am…and to quote a wise Buddhist saying that I seem to be repeating to people ad nauseum lately, “When you reach the top of the mountain, don’t curse the trail that brought you there.” In my case, it was a circuitous trail with a lot of wrong turns and dead ends into thorny toxic brush, but I survived somehow, and at the age of 30, I claimed my life as my own and made a new beginning. But the 25-year-old girl in the navy blue sweater listening to “Diamonds and Rust” didn’t know that yet.

Yesterday I had coffee with Ming, a friend and former student of mine who is 27.  The first time I set eyes on her was at a Halloween party at Vista de las Cruces School in Gaviota. I was a brand new teacher dressed like a witch, with a severe case of laryngitis. She was a tiny girl, about ten years old, dressed as a fairy princess, looking up me with wide blue eyes, never letting go of her mother’s hand. I mentioned that to her yesterday. “Oh, yes,” she said, “I remember it well. You were mute and I was shy, and neither one of us was herself.” 

Ming is an impressive young woman today, a world traveler and aspiring human rights activist, winner of a dazzling array of fellowships and awards, a graduate student who teaches creative writing and a writer herself of course. But she’s dealing with the issues and confusions that people in their 20s face, and she seemed more vulnerable than confident. She is poised at the threshold of amazing possibilities, but she’s still got that bewildering forest to get through…relationships, student debt, meaningful work…that kind of stuff. Each decision point might be crucial.

Obviously my own youth was not a carefree time, but I often tend to think youth is a carefree time for everyone else. You wake up in the morning radiant and good-looking and nothing on you hurts. Your life stretches out before you as a vast potential, so much of it still ahead.  You can enjoy yourself. Take some chances. Learn a lot. It’ll all work out. But talking to Ming, I remember that being young is a lot more worrisome and complicated than that, even for the fortunate ones who do not drop out of school and exile themselves to grim little offices in cold dreary towns and waste years doing psychodrama with, pardon the term, some asshole guy with issues of his own. It isn’t easy being young. 

Coincidentally, I spoke to another friend this morning, a woman named Rosemary, who’s about ten years older than I am. I love Rosemary’s spirit and the affirmative spin she puts on things. I don’t even know how the subject of getting older came up in our conversation, but it might have been related to the fact that she is going to her granddaughter’s dance recital this Saturday. “I firmly believe that aging has its compensations,” she said, and I am beginning to see that she’s right.

It’s not as though there comes a moment when everything is solved and settled; that never happens. But you get used to the framework of ambiguity, and you learn to see the small good things in front of you. “Life is so rich,” continued Rosemary, “and I’m so much more attentive now. Roses, for example. I don’t think I ever fully appreciated roses when I was young. Now, if someone gives me roses, I’m beside myself. I practically inhale them.” 

I tried to tell Ming…and I wish I could sail back into the past and tell that sad young Cynthia…but it really does get better. And yet, there’s no way I would have believed it.

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How Much the Heart Can Hold

It was one of those “I love my life” moments, visiting friends who live tucked away on a parcel of Gaviota land invisible from the highway. Getting there involved an easy-to-miss turnoff, unlatching a gate, and being met at the bottom of a hill and then driven up a bumpy dirt road with an impressive little creek crossing. Shelters included a cozy yurt set among ancient oak trees and adjacent to delightfully unkempt gardens of foxgloves and hollyhock, blue lobelia, various herbs and succulents, and the earth’s most fragrant sweet peas. There were fig trees and thickets of boysenberries started from Lori’s grandmother’s cuttings, and a short stroll away…through a meadow of wild oat and purple needle grass, past a small citrus grove and mulberry trees and rows of vegetables …Michael’s famous dragon fruit, lovingly tended in a warm protected space, and whose blossoms he hand-pollinates by moonlight.

Dogs romped. Strings of mirrors dangled from a roof overhang and glinted in the waning light. Michael lit a fire in an old propane can artfully transformed into an outdoor fireplace and we sat around it campfire style, talking the way friends talk when they really talk.

We shared stories about people we looked up to and places we’ve been, of choices we face or have faced and what matters most. We were ages 30 to 60+, but the questions were often the same ones, and the truths and touchstones constant.

Lori mentioned the poetry reading we had recently attended and mused about the way poetry can connect to us and connect us to each other.  She talked about how good it felt to hear someone give voice to emotions and experiences we all recognized but lacked the gift of articulating.

“It gave me that feeling…like…how much can a heart contain?” she asked, paraphrasing something from Dan Gerber.

And we knew the answer: very much.

 

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Whiplash. Detour.

And now for something completely different, a bit of whiplash and detour, lest I lull everyone into slumber with all that sweetness and light. I’m going to test drive one of my Long Island pieces, part of a collection I have been revisiting and expanding lately…all of them what I would describe as fictionalized memoir. It’s a strange term, I guess, and hopefully not too evocative of Mike Daisey’s now infamous “I am not a journalist” defense of the lies he presented on This American Life…but I’m talking about my own personal recollections, and although names and details have been changed, the essential truths remain intact, or at least they are the truth as I experienced it.

I’ve been writing about Long Island for a long time…not just any Long Island, but the Suffolk County of the 1960s, when my family became part of the great exodus into the suburbs from New York’s metropolitan area. Actually, where we moved wasn’t even exactly suburbs at the time; it was, as my mother bitterly proclaimed, The Sticks. It wouldn’t be long before the woods came down, housing developments proliferated, and the usual shopping malls, traffic, and suburban infrastructure took hold in all its predictable tackiness, but for the moment this place was strangely new, isolated from what we had known, and still wild at the edges.  The following fictionalized (“I am not a journalist”) portrait of a neighbor contains plenty of fact, and maybe it conveys something about the loneliness that was sometimes the price of moving from the city to one’s own Long Island house.

It’s called Come Back, You Son-of-A-Bitch:

Οurs was a wide, well-trafficked street interspersed with patches of woods that hadn’t yet been cleared for new houses, and there were no sidewalks, a fact that my mother, who actually liked to walk, grumbled about constantly. This was not a cookie-cut housing development: the homes were older, bore no resemblance to one another, and were set back at varying distances from the street. About a quarter of a mile away, just beyond an adjacent clump of pine trees, Audrey and Sal Bruno inhabited a ranch-style house on a large unkempt lot––until one day Sal left her, and Audrey became its sole occupant. She placed a large painted sign in her front yard:

DRIVER OF GREEN DODGE: LIC# 3GF9662 COME BACK YOU SON OF A BITCH

She watched and listened for his car in vain and took to walking along the avenue at all hours, our own brooding Heathcliff, though female and unmoored. She dyed her already wild and massive hair a disturbing shade of red, muttered to herself as she strode along the street, and according to one story, purchased buckshot for her grandfather’s old deer-hunting rifle. I pictured her sitting at her window on rainy days, gun at the ready. It was worrisome.

She also acquired cats, many cats. You could see them curled up in the sunlight, wandering around the yard, or leaping from a shopping cart piled high with soggy newspapers. And she knitted hats, scarves, and potholders that she set out for sale, despite a conspicuous lack of customers, at a little roadside table with an honor box, in odd contrast to the son-of-a-bitch sign a few feet behind it. Mostly she just walked, head down, red hair exploding from one of her own hand-knitted caps, with no apparent destination.

Even without having been officially deserted, a lot of wives on Long Island were feeling stranded or abandoned in the 1950s and 60s. Women who had spent their lives in the city walking to stores and parks or handily taking buses and subways to further destinations had in many cases never even learned to drive––what would be the point? There had been plenty to see, and places to go, all within amble or transit. Streets were noisy with the sounds of kids playing, while nosy old crones rested their elbows on the windowsills watching it all, ready to meddle if needed. Now the wives had been deposited in residential blocks of single-family dwellings. But husbands’ jobs might still be in the city, and commerce took place at supermarket shopping centers several miles away. The strange suburban isolation could come as a shock.

As for Audrey, perhaps she too had relocated from the city, who can say? In any case, her current address was certainly not an easy one from which to wander and forget. Her usual route was south along our street to Sunrise Highway, then north all the way to Veteran’s Highway and back, and the mileage she put in was quite impressive. Even early in the mornings, I might see her lurching along as I passed by on the school bus: gait heaving and hurried, long hair not quite contained by the odd little hat, a lumpy orange scarf wrapped around her neck and trailing like a flame. There was something tragic and pitiable about her, and I honestly thought about saying hello, leaving cookies on her doorstep, saving up my babysitting money to buy some hats or potholders. But I was, after all, only 12, and I had to admit she was creepy. She seemed the embodiment of misery, a reminder that all was not well in this bright new place to which we’d fled.

Then of course there came a day I didn’t see her, or the day after that, or the day after that. And one night, two policemen came up the long walkway to our house. It was a school night, and I was sitting in the kitchen doing homework. I remember the knock at our door, a loud authoritative rap.

Audrey Bruno had been lying dead for days in her house, no sign of foul play, autopsy pending. When had we last seen the lady? Did we know of any relatives? What could we tell them about her life?

We knew nothing but what we had glimpsed in passing. She went for long walks, she knitted things, she kept at least a dozen cats around…and she missed her husband Sal. She had sprung up here with no history or future. I’d never even heard the sound of her voice.

The little roadside table was dragged back inside and the sign was taken down, silencing the broadcast of her pain. Humane society volunteers coaxed cats into carriers and took them away, a clean-up crew arrived and filled three dumpsters, windows were boarded up with blank slabs of wood. Many green cars passed but not a one stopped.

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A Few Good Things About Last Week

In addition to the canyon wren…

there was a poetry reading

 

 

fresh-squeezed orange juice

 

 

 

a moth at the window of my car

(it flew away free moments later)

whales passing

pelicans soaring

that astonishing super moon

a bike ride with good friends

coconut cream pie

mornings in the garden

and this bounty of raggedy roses

…to name just a few.

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Hearing the Wren Sing

Yes, as it always has and ever will, the world offers us plenty of reasons to  be sad, and it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the suffering of humanity. My personal rebellion is choosing to be happy instead (defiantly, teeth-grittingly happy, damn it) and I’ve been trying every day to keep myself open to what’s beautiful and good.

So  I have been collecting miracles to share with you, and today I offer a heartrending bird song that I have long loved and listened for…and wondered whose it was. Recently, via birdwatching friends (specifically Carey and Rebecca), I learned that it is a canyon wren.

 

Listen: Bird Song

Lovely, isn’t it? It’s been described as a waterfall of descending notes. Clearly liquid. And even if  that little audio clip with its other distracting sounds isn’t the best way to hear it, I think you can get its essence. I’ve always imagined it’s a song you’d hear in heaven’s garden.

And I bow, not knowing to what, as did W.S. Merwin, in his beautiful poem For the Anniversary of My Death. See how the wren enters at the end:

Every year without knowing it I have passed the day
When the last fires will wave to me
And the silence will set out
Tireless traveller
Like the beam of a lightless star
Then I will no longer
Find myself in life as in a strange garment
Surprised at the earth
And the love of one woman
And the shamelessness of men
As today writing after three days of rain
Hearing the wren sing and the falling cease
And bowing not knowing to what

I was going to move on and tell you about a few more wondrous things, but you know what? It’s awfully hard to follow Merwin or a canyon wren. Let’s leave it at that for now.

Posted in Finding Hope, Nature, Poetry, Ranch Life | 2 Comments

Saturday’s Poem: A Walk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Walk by Rainer Maria Rilke

My eyes already touch the sunny hill.
going far ahead of the road I have begun.
So we are grasped by what we cannot grasp;
it has inner light, even from a distance-

and changes us, even if we do not reach it,
into something else, which, hardly sensing it,
we already are; a gesture waves us on
answering our own wave…
but what we feel is the wind in our faces.

Translation by Robert Bly

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Holding On

I’m back again after a hiatus (I love that word) that included a brief sojourn into the Southeastern U.S., in particular Atlanta, Savannah, and Charleston. The main reason for choosing Atlanta as a destination was to visit my brother, his wife, and my ten-year-old niece Rose. It was especially fun to have time in Rose’s world again. I enjoyed reading stories with her in her room, hearing her play the guitar, and meeting her dogs Luna and Otto, not to mention Shelly, her pet hermit crab. “Wouldn’t you like to hold him?” she asked. “Don’t you want to feel him walking up your arm? It tickles.” No to both. I respect Shelly’s integrity and admire the ingenuity of her design and mobility but I don’t care to get too intimate with crustaceans. Although I did order crab cake in a restaurant in South Carolina. (It wasn’t very good.)

I thought while I was traveling I would be inspired to write all sorts of rich detail about the places I visited and the reflections they inspired. But the thing about writing is that the less you write, the harder it is to write, and thus the less you write, and so it goes. Even now I’m still somewhere in that less-writing stage of the cycle, needing to get over the hump of how hard it is, and then hunker down and stick with it. Many insights (at least I thought they were insights at the time) came to me in the course of our wanderings, but that’s the other thing about writing: if you don’t immediately jot down those insights and impressions, they tend to fly away and vanish from view, perhaps lighting like butterflies of inspiration on someone far more diligent who will not only write them down but turn them into provocative essays and stories of heartbreaking genius.

I did send out a tweet now and then, hoping that those 140-character compositions might collectively comprise a kind of journal, but although I am beginning to understand Twitter a little better, it is still not coming naturally to me. At one point I tweeted, “To whom am I commenting, and why?” and I actually received a helpful response from one of my daughter’s hip friends, a young musician named Ben who actually “follows” me (along with a thousand or so other souls, but still…it’s flattering). Ben tweeted this: “You’re commenting to anyone who might be listening. And why? Hmm. I guess it’s just what people do when people might be listening.” Not unlike blogging, I suppose. (Hence the term micro-blogging? Ah ha.) Monte tells me that what I need to do is curate my tweets and be more selective about whom I follow. For me it has so far been mostly a random barrage of noise, but he relies on his Twitter stream to keep him informed of all sorts of events and developments, far more than the usual media outlets. I’m beginning to get it. I do want to selectively listen in and participate.

I’m trying hard, you see, not to become any more irrelevant and obsolete than I already am.  I want to use web space, including this one, to communicate in a manner that is real and potentially interactive. There’s been a whole lot of hand-wringing about Facebook and the internet lately. Well, it’s neither a cure for loneliness or a substitute for real life; that’s not much of a revelation. And I do find it discouraging that so much of these vast and remarkable capacities are used for self-promotion, selling stuff, and the shallowest of banter. But on the other hand, there’s a lot of amazing and thoughtful conversation happening as well…such as this….and this. Anyway, I may be an aging Boomer but I’m thrilled by the frontiers that technology has opened up. All of which is a major digression, but this is the kind of stuff I’ve been thinking about lately. Instead of writing.

That’s not all. I’ve also been thinking about the mythologies of families and how much the earliest lore continues to color our viewpoints for the rest of our lives. I guess that’s pretty obvious, but I experienced it anew while visiting family members in Georgia last week. I note, for example, the amusing way I view and refer to my brother––a 45-year-old father, husband, respected professional, and Ph.D. to boot––as my “little” brother. And I ponder the initial awkwardness I felt upon seeing a cousin in Atlanta for the first time since our grandfather’s funeral in 1966, when she’d been a glamorous teenager three years older than me, and conversing with her mother, whose name for years evoked some vaguely adversarial stance for reasons that pre-dated my existence, and who was now just an elderly, white-haired lady in a robe and bare feet sitting at a table heaped with old magazines and things. There were snippets of ancient stories, usually about hurts and betrayals, told with unexpired indignation: “I’ll never forget how she tore out his tomato plants!” or “Can you believe he never once paid a visit?”  and each carrying a warning, a  lesson, or rule of behavior. There were quick-fire characterizations: apparently my grandfather was a ladies’ man; my mother was mysterious; my father was imperious, and oh, could he talk fancy…and tales in three basic varieties: boastful, bitter, or infused with heartbreak. “This is how to view the world,” the mythology instructs. Or in Monte’s words, “You really did grow up in a 19th century Italian village.”

I thought, too, about the air…the oddly heavy, humid jasmine-scented air. My friend Dan, in an email, described it as an embrace, recalling how in Key West it was hard to know “where you leave off the air and the air begins”. An embrace, he said, but also oppressive. To me, just a tourist wandering through, it seemed luxuriant, fragrant, lazy. Particularly in Savannah, where oaks dripped with Spanish moss, and people paused in leafy parks enjoying the cool spray of a fountain, and I listened to a blue grass tune flung into the air by a musician practicing in the shade of a magnolia tree. There were monuments and markers in remembrance of soldiers and luminary citizens, bumpy cobble-stoned streets, ivy-covered houses with gated gardens. It might be a place of decadence, secrets, and painful history too, but it was in no hurry. It held onto its ghosts. 

As do I. Or they hold onto me.

Posted in Memoir, On Writing, Travel | 3 Comments

Saturday’s Poem: Present Light

PRESENT LIGHT

By Charles Ghigna

If I could
hold light
in my hand
 
I would
give it
to you
 
and watch it
become
your shadow.

Charles Ghigna, “Present Light” from Love Poems. Copyright © 1999 by Charles Ghigna.

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